Since the 16th century, Turkish women have ornamented textiles with oya, or lacework made by knotting a silken thread with small needles. Hulya learned to make this lace from her grandmother and mother on the Aegean coast of Turkey. She began to travel across Turkey’s diverse regions to learn the different techniques and designs particular to each. Oya is typically used to adorn scarves, handkerchiefs, money bags, jewelry and both men’s and women’s’ apparel.

This tradition traces its roots to the Turkish countryside where women wore scarves as protection from the sun while working in the fields. The lacework sometimes is a symbol of status or can even tell a story—for example, a married woman who can’t get on with her mother-in-law might adorn her scarf with red and green chili peppers to show her vitriole, while a young unmarried woman might adorn hers with hyacinths or daisies.